Qatar World Cup Reflections- Day 4


The fourth day turned out to be about Khlaeeji (Gulf Arab) culture and history. We woke up quite late because of the late hour getting back to the hotel from Al Bayt Stadium. We thought for a minute of going to Qatar University to watch the Spanish National team train. For any football purist, the training exercises of the Spaniards in and of themselves for years have been fascinating to watch. A mix of physical exertion, tactical maneuvering, and footballing science all melded into highly skilled and synched drills. And yet, after discussing it, we opted for the Qatar National Museum !!! Culture won over football at least this once? And we would not regret it.

The museum is located a few metro stops from our hotel in the Corniche. Its architecture is eye catching and unique being that of a sandy desert rose with sharp round edges forming all the outer rims. It is a stunning creation by French architect Jean Nouvelle that leaves one wondering how it was actually constructed. The building itself is surrounded by a fountain of what looks like Arabic script sputtering water-- Arabs have always had a romantic affinity to fountains as far back as Andalusian times. I suspect desiring what the desert did not offer is a part of it. Another has to do with the notion of the firdaus- paradise on earth with flowing water around carefully curated gardens smelling of Jasmine ... Nearby was a Dhow replica that showcases pearl hunting in the Gulf, which for the longest time in this area's history was pretty much the core economic activity. Traditionally designed Arab Gulf houses complete the circle around the museum and whose ancient design afforded them natural air inflow for the desert heat. Unlike places like Turkey, Spain, and Iran, Islamic architecture in the Gulf traditionally followed much less complexity and design first because the desert did not provide the prime material and second because of a lack of any wealth for most of the history of this region. All rich constructions in the region actually came post 1990's-- a mere 30 years ago. This is how young this ancient region is.
While walking outside the museum we had the opportunity to taste delicious Arab Gulf coffee, which unlike the thick dark Turkish type, is actually tainted light yellow, given it is made of cardamom, saffron, and less concentration of coffee. The first time I had tasted it was in Kuwait many years back together with some dates. It is not as acidic nor as caffeinated. The coffee had been a complementary offering by a quiet shy-looking young local Qatari man. Over coffee, and seated on Arab cushions we started a conversation about Arabian Gulf culture and were soon joined by an elegant Qatari lady dressed in her black thowb (outer garment). I asked her how come in such heat Arab women in the Gulf dress in black. Her answer came as a bit of a surprise. "There is a curious legend," she smiled, "and it has to do with a textile merchant in Madina (Saudi Arabia) who in the time of the prophet found himself stuck with an overstock of black abayas having sold all the colored ones. So, he concocted to turn the black garment into the most "culturally appropriate", hoping to offload his stock. He hired a poet to write a poem about a mysterious woman in black who had left a most pious man in a daze through her mysterious black veil and dress. The merchant's marketing trick apparently caused all the women of Madina to rush to the market to be clad in the same black veil to daze their own! And ever since, the tradition has carried on ...
Wanting to see Souq Waqif, we decided to leave the museum not yet having discovered all the interior. The Souq is a traditional one, but of course with an influx of football fans donning Brazil shirts-they were playing later on in the evening. The Souq offered a bazaar of Arabian essence, trinkets, even camel rides. Interestingly, many sports media channels had placed their temporary studios right next to the Souq for the backdrop. The highlight came at sunset when several mosques sounded the azan prayers.
Close to the Souqs is Stadium 974, which we had not seen but had become famous as it is made of containers and will actually be shipped lock stock and barrel after the games to a lucky developing country. Karim decided the best way to get there was a scooter, so we got a pair and got there in time before all the Brazilian fans descended. We did not have tickets for this game, so took some photos next to some Chinese speaking perfect Arabic?! before heading to the Fan Fest to watch Brazil completely demolish poor South Korea within the first 30 minutes ... This is a very strong Brazilian side with a solid defense, controlling midfield, and an unbelievable attacking force formed by the likes of Neimar, Richarlison, Vinicius, and Raphinha. If players the quality of Martinelli and Gabriel Jesus can't make it into a side, you know that it is a magnificent attacking power. Judging by performances so far, this cup is Brazil's to lose ...





































































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